Night Photography Part 2: Cityscapes

Last week I shared some tips for getting prepared for night shooting whether cityscapes or astrophotography. Night is one of the most beautiful and dynamic times to shoot in the city. I hope these technical tips will help you to capture some incredible night city scenes.

1) Shoot in RAW - The best way to get the most information in your files and therefore the best quality photographs is to shoot RAW. Exposure and white balance both can be tricky with night photography and the more information you collect while shooting, the more leeway you will have when you get into post processing for adjustments. 

2) Low ISO - While astrophotography generally calls for a high ISO since it requires very dark skies for visible stars, the lights of towns and cities create an overall brighter scene. This allows for a low ISO to help reduce noise in your images. Depending on the available light as well as my aperture and shutter speed choices, my ISO is typically between 200 and 800.

Buckingham Fountain during Blue Hour

Buckingham Fountain during Blue Hour

3) Manual Focus - Focusing manually is the best way to ensure sharp focus in night photography.  If you are close enough to lights and points of contrast, I find autofocus can work quite well, but as it gets darker, when you are further away from the scene, or when you are using a wide angle lens, autofocus will often miss the mark. Even if you think autofocus is working for you, I recommend using live view and zooming in on a point of contrast and manually tweaking the focus until sharp. 

4) White Balance - Choice of white balance at night can be a bit tricky. The night shadows tend to be very cool but the city lights are very warm. Be aware of this dichotomy and try to balance out the intensity of the warm lights with the cool shadows. Like all imagery, choice of white balance is subjective for the look and mood you want to portray so you may have a preference for warmer or cooler tones. Using live view can often help me find my happy place with the color. If your camera’s auto white balance does a good job, that can often be a great choice as well. 

Telephoto capture of part of the Chicago skyline

Telephoto capture of part of the Chicago skyline

5) Bracket exposures - Night city scenes present a challenge as they have a high dynamic range to capture. The lights of buildings and vehicles are quite bright while the shadows are dark, making the dynamic range more than cameras can capture in a single exposure. Bracketing exposures by programming your camera or by adjusting your settings manually is the best way to ensure you capture detail in both the shadows or highlights. 

6) Histogram - Use your histogram to help you evaluate your exposure. Your LCD screen is not a great way to check exposure which is why I recommended in Part 1: Preparation to turn the brightness down. This way it won’t trick you into thinking you have proper exposure when you don’t. With the high dynamic range, check your highlights and your shadows to ensure you have detail in both. Refer back to those bracketed exposures. If your brightest bracketed exposure still has clipped shadows, brighten it up. If your darkest bracketed exposure still has blown highlights, reduce the exposure. While sometimes you may find you can recover enough information to make a single exposure work, it is always best to gather as much information in the field as you can. 

Williamsburg Bridge from Brooklyn

Williamsburg Bridge from Brooklyn

7) Take Test Shots - Don’t be afraid to take test shots and examine them for focus, exposure and white balance. Examine them to consider your composition as well to see if you have included distracting elements or cut off important lines or features. Zoom in to check for sharp focus. Check your histogram for the dynamic range. Check to see if your images are excessively warm or cool. 

8) Create Starbursts of City Lights - Close your aperture down to capture starbursts of those city lights. F/16 its a great number to aim for. If you need more light, in this image below I was able to get the starburst of this rotating lighthouse light at f/13.

Harbour Town at night with an aperture of f/13 to get the starburst of the lighthouse light!

Harbour Town at night with an aperture of f/13 to get the starburst of the lighthouse light!

9) Arrive Early - Getting to your location for sunset will allow you to take your time in setting up and evaluating different compositions. This will also give you the opportunity to shoot through varying lighting situations of sunset, blue hour and true night skies.  A stunning time to capture is when the lights first come on in the city!

Part of the Chicago skyline as the sky transitions to night and the city lights are turning on!

Part of the Chicago skyline as the sky transitions to night and the city lights are turning on!

These tips can also be used in a smaller downtown or even in a rural area when shooting a lit up building amongst darker skies such as this scene below at Emerald Lake.


Next week’s topic in the Night Photography Series is Light Trails, so keep an eye on your inbox! 

This kind of environment mixes an astrophotography approach with a city scene approach. The ISO in this image is 800. Shooting in this kind of scene without the bright restaurant would require a much higher ISO. Additionally, this is a situation of …

This kind of environment mixes an astrophotography approach with a city scene approach. The ISO in this image is 800. Shooting in this kind of scene without the bright restaurant would require a much higher ISO. Additionally, this is a situation of merging exposures and balancing white balance for the cool sky and the warm restaurant lights.


Kristen Ryan is an award winning and published landscape and fine art photographer and educator residing in the Midwest suburbs of Chicago. All images are available for purchase in the Fine Art Store or by request. Kristen leads ladies landscape photography retreats in the TetonsChicago, and the Canadian Rockies, offers private mentoring and teaches an online landscape photography workshop, The World Around You. The next run of The World Around You begins August 17!

Tips for Bracketing

One of the challenges in landscape photography comes when we come upon a scene with a dynamic range wider than our cameras can capture. The scenes where exposing for the beautiful sky leaves the foreground land completely black but when you expose for the foreground, the sky is blown out and white. When I’m out shooting my goal is always to capture all the information I can so that when I upload to my computer I have all the options I need for post processing. And this means capturing details in the entire dynamic range of the scene.

These days our cameras are capturing a much wider dynamic range and quite often we can find a happy medium where we can expose at the edge too bright where we can pull down the highlights and bright enough that the shadows can be pulled up to bring out the darker details. But sometimes bringing up these shadows creates more noise than we want in our image. So in the field, I will generally bracket my exposures to capture full detail in my highlights AND in my shadows.

To do this, you can bracket automatically by setting your camera to shoot a certain numbers of exposures at a set number of stops apart or you can spot meter for various tones in your scene (i.e. shadows, midtones, highlights). For example, you can set your camera to take 3 exposures each 1 stop apart, or you could set it for 5 exposures .7 stops apart, etc. My Nikon D850 has a little button on the front left of the camera that opens my bracketing menu and makes this extremely easy. Check your own camera manual to find out how you can set your bracketing. Alternatively, you can capture several bracketed exposures manually by spot metering to take a shot exposed for the highlights, then the same for the midtones, and finally the shadows.

A couple tips:

1) Use a Tripod - While you can bracket handheld, and I do at times in brighter light, a tripod will ensure greater success when you go to merge them in post processing. The tripod will keep your exposures identically composed and focused and avoid problems with alignment.

2) Check your Histogram - After you have taken a series of bracketed exposures, check your histogram to see that you have captured the full dynamic range. Your brightest exposure should not have any clipped shadows (clipped shadows are shown by a histogram climbing the left wall) and your darkest exposure should not have any blown highlights (blown highlights shown by a histogram climbing the right wall). Look at both your overall histogram and the individual channels as well.

3) Turn on your Highlight Blinkies - If you turn on the highlight warning in your camera, any areas of blown out highlights will blink on your LCD screen in the correct preview setting. This is extremely helpful so that you know you have captured all the highlight detail of the scene

4) In post processing, you may not need ALL your bracketed exposures. Your goal in the field is to capture all the information you might need later. If you capture 5 bracketed exposures, you may find that you only need two or three of them to achieve your final edit. Learning what you need just takes experimenting and practice.

Below is an example of three bracketed exposures during sunset. The middle exposure of 2 seconds could be edited as a single file as the details of the shadows and highlights can be brought back despite the histogram showing these areas losing detail. I could choose to use this exposure for editing and disregard the other two. The darker exposure, however maintains nicer color in the sunset tones and the brightest exposure captures a lot more detail in the shadows. I am sharing my histograms with each exposure so you can see how they show my success in capturing detail in the shadows in the brightest exposure and full detail in the highlights in my darkest exposure.

Darkest Exposure at 1 second

Middle Exposure at 2 seconds

Brightest Exposure at 4 seconds

In the end, I chose to combine the brightest and darkest exposures in Photoshop by using luminosity masking. This technique using the TK Actions makes it really simple to combine exposures.

String Lake Sunset-001.jpg

Hope this helps you capture the full range of the scene next time you are out!


Kristen Ryan is an award winning and published landscape and fine art photographer and educator residing in the Midwest suburbs of Chicago. All images are available for purchase in the Fine Art Store or by request. Kristen leads ladies landscape photography retreats in the TetonsChicago, and the Canadian Rockies, offers private mentoring and teaches an online landscape photography workshop.